| The Art of the Table | |
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Veterans of formal dining and entertaining will most likely find the historic reasons for so many of our customs fascinating, and will be amused by the many dining related quotations she scatters throughout the book. For example, in her introduction to the chapter on the fork:
It is coarse and ungraceful to throw food into the mouth as you would toss hay into a barn with a pitchfork. - Anonymous
Von Drachenfels truly shines when she discusses dinnerware. She covers, in depth, the process of creating dinnerware from coloring to glazing through firing. She details the strengths of each style, as well as the downsides. There's also an explicit glossary of decorative methods and styles that will be useful to anyone who ever wanted to know the difference between rococo and majolica.
This is a very ambitious book. The final third of this weighty, 592-page volume elaborates on the history behind what's served at the table, including the traditional foods served at a seven-course meal. There's a chapter on the history of wine, followed by the basic elements of wine tasting, and wine serving. There are several chapters on tea and coffee including their origins, worldwide dissemination, discussion of different varieties, and proper service. Von Drachenfels caps off the book with several chapters on table manners, including an A-Z guide on how to eat difficult foods such as lobsters, pomegranates, ribs and frog legs.
Frog Legs: The frog is a four-legged amphibious animal with long hind legs and shot forelegs; it is web-footed, has no tail, and both swims and leaps. The tender white flesh of the legs is akin to chicken in taste, and frogs are farmed. The legs are held with the fingers of one hand. The large legs are disjointed with a knife and fork.
When it comes to table manners, Von Drachenfels' formal bias is apparent, although she's tolerant of other viewpoints.
...there are those who still hold that the conversation is more important than the food and a complement on the menu or a particular course distracts from the discourse and is inappropriate at a party. The decision, therefore, is individual.
All things considered, this is a fascinating book about our cultural traditions regarding the all-important subject of dining. Whether you're a novice to entertaining, or a professional in the field, there is something to be learned here, and it's well worth a place on your reference shelf.
